Fashion Designer Pierre Balmain-Indelibles.com

Born in St. Jean de Maurienne, France in 1914, Pierre Balmain's family owned a wholesale drapery business. His mother worked at a clothes boutique which was managed by her two sisters. Balmain's father died when he was only 7 years old and his happiest childhood memories were of playing in the shop where his mother and aunts made dresses. When he was little, Balmain played with the fabrics and set his heart on one day being able to become a world renown couturier.

Balmain studied architecture at the Ecole des Beaux Arts in Paris, but did not however complete his studies. He spent his spare time designing dresses and took some of them in order to show to Robert Piguet, who bought three of them. Balmain then went to Molyneux who promised to give him a trial. Once accepted, Balmain felt able to leave his architectural studies. From 1934 to 1939, Balmain worked for Molyneux.

In 1936 Balmain was called up for compulsory military service, which, when he had completed in 1939, Balmain decided to join Lucien Lelong and worked there during the German occupation of Paris.

In 1945 Pierre Balmain opened his own house, showing amongst other things, long bell-shaped skirts with small waists - a line which later became very popular as Dior's New Look.

Two years later, Balmain launched a perfume and named it after his telephone number: "Elysees 64-83".

In 1951 Balmain opened branches selling ready-to-wear clothes in the USA . His success in the USA has been attributed to the fact that he was able to translate French fashion into clothes for the American woman's generally larger frame, without compromising any aspect of his style. Balmain also designed many sportswear collections for this ready-to-wear market.

Balmain's talent as a designer lay chiefly in his ability to be able to make simple, tailored suits as well as grandiose evening gowns, all in the same slender, supple and extremely elegant lines. During the 1950's Balmain popularized the stole for day as well as evening wear and created a trend for sheath dresses worn beneath jackets.

Balmain's coats were generously cut in order to give a full back and were sometimes half belted. During the same period, his cossack-like wraps and capes became real tend-setters. Balmain was beginning to be known and appreciated as a designer for the international set.

In addition to his couture work, Pierre Balmain's designs were greatly in demand all around Hollywood. Between the years 1951 and 1972, Balmain decided to design costumes for 16 films, starring such stars as Vivien Leigh and Mae West. His elegance was also in demand for the off-screen clothes of Hollywood stars. Balmain is also known to have designed for French films, including the famous film "And God Created Woman" which introduced actress Brigitte Bardot to the world.

Several designers also worked under Pierre Balmain, who then went on to become famous in their own names, including Gerard Pipart from 1948, Jean-Baptiste Caumont briefly, John Cavanagh from 1947 to 1951 and Karl Lagerfeld from 1955 to 1958.

In 1964 Pierre Balmain wrote his autobiography, which he named "My Years and Seasons".

Balmain died in Paris in 1982. His house was taken over by Erik Mortensen, a Danish designer, who had been Balmain's right hand man since 1948. He left Balmain in 1991 replaced by Herve Pierre (born 1965) who remained the designer for the two following years.

In 1993, Oscar de la Renta took over the couture design for the house of Balmain. He presented collections for Balmain for nearly 10 years, which were very successful. Oscar de la Renta presented his last collection for Balmain in the month of July 2002.

In December 2001, Swiss-born Laurent Mercier (born 1966) took over the Balmain ready-to-wear section. Laurent Mercier is a talented designer, whose own signature collection also won some good critical acclaim.

In November 2002, Laurent Mercier was also appointed Artistic Director of Balmain Haute Couture division. He studied at the Paris Chamber Syndicate school as well as at Bercot. Before coming to the house of Balmain, he was an assistant to Jean-Paul Gaultier for 3 years, and 2 years at Escada, in Munich, Germany.